How Does Permaculture Handle Waste In Animal Systems?

“I’ve started a small permaculture farm in southeast England, and I’m struggling to manage the waste from my chickens and goats in a way that fits with permaculture principles. The compost pile is getting overwhelmed, and I’m worried about potential smell or pest issues if I don’t handle this right. How should I approach waste management in animal systems so everything works harmoniously without turning into a smelly mess?” – Thanks, James, Kent, UK.

Understanding Waste in Permaculture Animal Systems

Great question, James! Handling waste in animal systems can definitely feel a bit overwhelming, especially when you’re aiming to maintain that perfect balance in permaculture. Trust me, it’s something that I’ve had to figure out through a lot of trial and error on my own little patch of land in Minnesota. But when done right, animal waste can actually become one of your biggest assets in the garden. Let’s break this down so that your chickens and goats leave you with a system that works for you, not against you.

In permaculture, waste—whether it’s from animals, plants, or humans—is never actually “waste.” It’s a resource waiting to be transformed into something valuable. The key lies in seeing how each element in your system can support the others. In this case, your chickens, goats, and composting setup all need to work together to create a robust, healthy environment.

Why Animal Waste is a Resource, Not a Problem

Animal manure is packed with nutrients that your soil craves. Chicken manure, for instance, is rich in nitrogen, which is great for leafy greens, but it can be a bit too “hot” (high in nitrogen) to use directly on plants. Goat manure, on the other hand, is more balanced and a bit easier to work with as a natural fertilizer.

But it’s not just the nutrients that make manure valuable. The waste also contains organic matter that helps improve soil structure, absorb water, and foster a diverse microbiome in the soil. Plus, when properly managed, it enhances the overall fertility of your land, keeping your plants nourished and your soil healthy.

Let’s focus on a few key strategies that will help you manage this waste in a way that harmonizes with the permaculture principles. The goal? To turn what feels like a problem into something that actively benefits your farm.

Efficient Ways to Handle Animal Waste

James, there are a number of different approaches you can take, depending on your setup and what sort of resources (or challenges) you’re working with. Here are some of best strategies to manage waste effectively on your permaculture farm.

The Power of Composting with Animal Waste

First off, composting is a tried-and-true method for dealing with manure, but it does require a bit of balancing to avoid the very problems you’re worried about (smells, pests, etc.). The key here lies in creating a well-managed compost pile that mixes your animal waste with plenty of carbon-rich materials like straw, wood chips, or even dried leaves.

Tips for a Balanced Compost

• Layering: Alternate between “green” nitrogen-rich materials (like your chicken or goat manure) and “brown” carbon-rich materials. Think of it like building a lasagna: a nice balance of ingredients is key.
• Turning the Pile: Turn your compost regularly to add oxygen, speed up decomposition, and prevent bad odors. Try to flip it every 1-2 weeks if possible.
• Moisture Levels: Keep your compost like a wrung-out sponge—too dry, and the process slows; too wet, and you invite trouble like smells and pests.

Advanced Composting Techniques: Bokashi Buckets and Worm Bins

If your compost pile is feeling overwhelmed, like James’s, you might want to consider some alternative methods to handle the load. Sometimes, thinking outside the box can make all the difference.

Bokashi Buckets

Bokashi is a Japanese method that uses anaerobic fermentation to break down food and garden waste quickly and with minimal odor. It can be a great way to handle smaller amounts of manure without the concerns that come with large, open compost piles. After the fermentation process, the material can be added directly to the soil or to your main compost pile for further decomposition.

Vermicomposting (Worm Bins)

This involves worms doing the heavy lifting for you by breaking down organic materials, including small amounts of manure. Worm casting (worm poo) is pure gardening gold and a super-concentrated fertilizer! Just be sure to monitor how much manure you add to avoid overwhelming the worms.

Creating a Multifunctional System: Animal “Tractors”

Ever heard of a chicken tractor, James? It’s essentially a movable pen where chickens can roam and forage on the pasture, but in a controlled space. As they scratch the surface, they’re naturally fertilizing your soil and controlling pests. It’s an organic way to spread their waste across your land without the effort of hauling around manure.

While chicken tractors are most common, you can apply the same principle to goats or other small livestock. Not only will this reduce the pile-up in your compost bin, but the natural deposit will be less concentrated and “hot” than fresh manure. Plus, your soil will benefit right where it needs it most, one “patch” at a time.

Benefits of Animal Tractors

• Avoids manure build-up in one area.
• Improves pasture health by promoting even distribution of nutrients.
• Reduces the workload since animals spread their own waste.
• Enhances soil structure through natural aeration as animals forage.

Using the Manure: Direct Application vs. Composting

One approach doesn’t always fit all scenarios, so it’s important to know when to apply your manure directly to the garden and when to compost it first.

Plants that Don’t Mind Fresh Manure

If you’re growing plants that are heavy feeders, like corn, squash, or pumpkins, you can take advantage of fresh, diluted manure applied as a compost tea. Just remember that fresh chicken manure needs to be diluted well because it’s so nitrogen-rich, or it might burn the plants. Goat manure is a bit more forgiving and can even be applied directly, as it’s typically more balanced and doesn’t need to rest as long.

When to Let It Compost First

For most other plants, or if you’re uncertain, it’s safest to let your manure fully compost before application. Compost ensures that any potential pathogens are killed, making the manure safe to use, especially around edible plants. Plus, composting helps mellow the nutrients, making them more available to plants over time instead of all at once, which can actually be harmful.

Dealing with Smell and Pests

James, you mentioned concerns about potential smells and pests, which are common issues when dealing with manure. Let’s nip those problems in the bud.

Controlling Odor

The key to odor control is all in the balance and application techniques mentioned earlier. Here are a few specific tips:

• Cover Your Compost: If possible, keep your compost pile covered with a tarp or a specialized compost cover. This helps retain moisture without letting it get too wet, while also containing any potential smells.
• Add a Layer of Carbon: A final top layer of straw or wood chips can help act as a “biofilter” for any odors, breaking down gases before they reach your nose.
• Site Your Pile Wisely: Consider the placement of your compost pile. If odors do become an issue, moving the pile downwind from your living areas or high-traffic spots can help.

Keeping Pests Away

Every gardener knows pests can be drawn to compost like moths to a flame, especially when there’s manure involved. Here’s what you can do:

• Use Secure Bins or Fences: If larger pests like raccoons or rats are an issue, securing your compost with a predator-resistant bin or fencing off the area can make a big difference.
• Mind the Ingredients: Stick to a balanced compost with no meat or dairy, which are big pest attractors. The right carbon to nitrogen ratio also makes the compost uninteresting to pests.
• Turn the Pile Often: A pile that’s always in motion is less likely to become a pest hotel. Regular turning heats up the compost, discouraging pests from sticking around.

Making the Most of Bedding Materials

Another aspect to consider is what kind of bedding material you’re using in your animal enclosures. Straw, hay, wood shavings, or shredded leaves all have different properties and will impact how you manage their waste.

Choosing the Right Bedding

Wood shavings and straw can both be excellent additions to your compost and are often more readily available. However, if your goal is to keep the compost odor-free and breaking down efficiently, using more straw and fewer wood shavings can be helpful. Straw breaks down quicker and contributes to that carbon-rich balance you’re aiming for.

Using Spent Bedding

Spent bedding can also be re-used in other areas of the garden. Consider using it as mulch around more established plants or in pathways to walk on. This not only gives the material more life before it fully decomposes, but also helps to control weeds and retain moisture in the soil.

Integrating Animals with Garden Systems

If you’re looking to integrate your chicken and goat systems more directly with your garden, consider how you can allow animals to contribute to turning soil, adding fertility directly to where it’s needed, or even preying on pests.

Chicken and Goat Grazing

Rather than thinking of your chickens and goats as separate from your crops, think of letting them work your land in cycles. You can rotate them through areas of your garden that have already been harvested (or are resting). Their grazing can help control weeds, and their manure can feed the soil.

Strategic Fencing

This method requires strategic fencing to ensure that your animals access only the areas you want them to. Just be aware that goats can be mischievous escape artists, so secure fencing is a must!

Troubleshooting Common Issues in Waste Management

We all run into hiccups now and then. Whether it’s that compost pile that’s suddenly not cooking, or too much of one type of waste overwhelming the system, here are some tips.

Compost Not Heating Up

If your compost pile isn’t heating up enough to manage pathogens or break down efficiently, it’s often down to one of three issues:

• Too Dry: Add water until the pile is moist but not soggy.
• Too Small: Piles smaller than three feet square might not generate enough heat. Try adding more material to bulk it up.
• Not Enough Nitrogen: Add more green manure or food waste to boost the nitrogen content.

Too Much Manure, Not Enough Browns

If you’ve got more green (manure) than you know what to do with, and not enough browns to balance, don’t panic. Consider reaching out to local landscapers or neighbors—they often have excess leaves or wood chips they’d be happy to drop off. It’s an easy win-win!

Finding the Right Routine

Permaculture focuses on routines that work with nature’s cycles. When struggling with waste management, consider how your farm’s rhythms might benefit from some tweaking: more regular manure collection, planned compost turning, or a more efficient way to move animals to and from grazing areas can all make life easier.

Final Thoughts…

James, managing waste in a permaculture system is all about finding that balance where every input has a purpose. Whether you’re composting, direct applying, or using your chickens and goats like little furry gardeners, each strategy brings its own benefits. Remember, what feels like waste today will become tomorrow’s fertility. Thanks for such a thoughtful question—it’s clear you’re on the right track already!